Listen, Learn & Enjoy!

When I was first trying to learn to speak Kreyol, I found that listening to music was the best way for me to practice on my own. Now that I understand and am able to have a decent conversation in Kreyol, I enjoy Haitian music so much more. The beats are so cheerful and most of the time the lyrics present Haiti's reality, the good and the bad, but mostly the incredible potential you can find.

In hopes of opening you up to a new style of music, new artists, and a perhaps all together new culture, here are some great summer hits for you. It's almost the end of summer, so pump these up, listen, learn and ENJOY!


Enjoy- J Perry,  & Dekole - J Perry, Wyclef Jean, Izolan, Luck Mervil and Shabba

Business or Pleasure? Humm, Both!

Last year, our micro-business students attended a training program with SOFHIDES ( the Haitian Financial Society of development, which works on the economic development of Haiti by supporting investments, businesses, providing training, etc. See http://www.sofihdes.com/).  The students who attended the business training program were interested in starting their own small business. In order to evaluate the training and get feedback from the students about their experience and their businesses, we decided to get them to fill out a questionnaire, and I would compile the results into a report.

Last week I started meeting the students. Marie Nicole, Martine and Jean Thony came to the office a Thursday afternoon. Picture myself translating the English questionnaire in Creole, considering that I don’t speak creole perfectly and I sometimes just take the “r” out of French words, and change the “u” sound to an “I” sound so that they understand!

Too shy to look at the camera, KCH business students spent
the afternoon with me filing out the questionnaire.

Well, it took us about 2 ½ hours to answer the questionnaire because we were laughing so much. We were joking about their answers; I was trying to get them to answer fully and give more detail, not be shy about speaking their mind. Haitians have a tendency not give too many details, maybe out of fear, I’m not sure.

We spent the whole afternoon laughing and it made my day, considering that my morning class din’t go as smoothly as I wanted. I find this happens a lot here; something will happen that might discourage you, or put you down a bit, but within a few hours you get turned around by people you meet, or a new event.  The unexpected is always welcomed.

Moving forward together

As I had mentioned a few posts back, I was given a classroom to teach in for the summer. Lucardo and I told the owner of the school that if any of his students wanted to attend the class as well, they were more than welcomed to. Five weeks went by without a neighborhood kid showing up. I’ve been told that Haitians do not like things that are free, or they think free things are not good for them, except for food that is. This is my first concern. I am not sure if this is the result of having so many organizations in the country that don’t really have an impact on daily lives, or jut the mentality of Haitians. I am still thinking about this.

Back to what I was saying…

Issues with free services could explain why it took 5 weeks for me to get these neighborhood kids to come to my class. Maybe it was seeing the KCH students come regularly that encouraged them.

One of these students from the neighborhood, a young man of 23 years old if my memory is good, gave me a piece of paper last week on which he had written:

“ Bonjou Chè Ariane, jodia mwen vle ekriw ti biyè sa jis poum diw mwen vle pou ta banm yon travay. OK mèsi.” [ Good morning Ariane, today I am giving you this note because I would like you to to give me work. Ok, thanks.]

At first I didn’t understand…He wants homework? He wants me to give him an exam? Ohhh, he wants work, as in JOB. Ah! This brings me to my second concern…

I asked him what job he wanted. He said: "Nenpòt" [Anything]. Knowing more and more about Haiti and Haitians, I knew this wasn’t true. So I asked him in creole “ Do you want to lift cement, lift iron rods, lift wood?.” “Non non non!”[No] was his reponse, while waving his hand in front of me,

“Well then, you don’t want just ANY job. So what do you want?”

… No answer.

“You need to know what you want to do. Do you want to sweep floors?” Knowing too well what his answer would be, I asked this question with an ulterior motive. Yes, I did. After all, I’m in Haiti because I want to see change. Change in behaviors, in attitudes, change in the country. I used to be idealistic, now you could say I just speak my mind because reality is harsh, and work is necessary to change.

The young man answered that he does not what to sweep floors. Why?

“Ayisyen genyen twòp konplèks" [Haitians have too many issues, prejudices towards themselves.]

That’s what I expected to hear. Well, at 8:30 am, I was ready for this discussion and I so I gave them a lesson: Ayiti pap janm dekole si okun moun pa vle bale!! [Haiti will never take off if no one wants to sweep floors!]. This was followed by a speech about how, if Haitians know they have these issues and prejudices, they are able to let go of them. If you are conscious that you have certain issues it is your choice to decide to stick with them or not. For Haiti to move on, individuals must start moving on. I told them how in Canada, white, black, brown, yellow, old and young, everyone sweeps, and we want to move forward. Of course Canada is much different than Haiti, but that is really not the point. With their eyes wide open, their jaws on the floor, I finished by telling them that if I didn’t like Haiti, I would not be here, so I am saying this out of love.

It was quite a start to the day, one I hope they will remember for a while, or it at least think about.

Exam time

I finally gave my students their first exam for the English class. I know, it should have been done at least one or two weeks ago. But Haiti is the land of improvisation! Last week some of my students told me they wouldn't be able to come to class because of exams they had for school, I therefore had to postpone my exam. Well, Friday (yesterday), I finally gave them the exam. I have to say It was nice to take a break from teaching! For the essay question part, I gave them 3 choices of subject; 1) You are the president of Haiti, 2) you are a famous celebrity, 3) you are a world traveller, Tell me about you, about your life. Well, one of my students, Chardley, who is enthusiastic, works hard (sometimes too hard) proceeded to writing a full on presidential campaign! He was still writing 45 minutes after everyone else was done. It goes to show that many Haitians do care about politics, what government should be doing, and have great ideas. For Chardley, the Haitian government should be focusing on education, agriculture and tourism. I couldn't agree more. I would also add building roads to the list (still thinking about my crazy drive to Cap Haitien!). 

When I read or get my students to talk about politics or social issues, I have hope for change and I am reminded just how much this generation, my generation, can get the ball rolling and is ready to embrace change. 

After the exam, we celebrated TGIF with 7Up and Doritos. Who would've thought chips could bring so much excitement to the office....or was it just the fact that the weekend was at our doorstep?  ... This is one of my favourite pictures or moments. Alfredo on the left eating and holding up a sign with his favourite expressions, J-P accepting to get his picture taken, and Beatrice, a kind woman I just met.

Okap / Cap Haïtien

Cap Haïtien is the second biggest city in Haiti, and an important part of Haiti's colonial period when it served as the capital of the French Colony. Henri Christophe was the "King of the North"* after the slave revolution that brought Haiti's independence on January 1st 1804. 

The canal/water front in the middle of the city.

From Port-au-Prince, the road to Cap Haïtien is...well...quite bumpy. But you can also take a 25 minute flight instead of the 5-6 hour drive, if you don't mind spending about 200$US roundtrip. I have to say I started regretting my trip up North when I was on the road past the city of Hinche (where the road hasn't yet been paved). 

Cap Haitien's Cathedral

But the end justifies the means. Cap isn't much different from PaP in that it's still very busy. But the streets are cleaner,  "white people" don't get stared at like it can happen in PaP, and almost every house of building has balconies and huge wooden doors from the colonial architecture. 

Virgin island off the coast of Labadee

I think the most impressive view though is the one when on the road towards Labadee beach, heading West from Cap. The ocean is Jolly rancher/Kool Aid/ Skittles blue (can you tell I love and miss candy!?) and the mountains are huge. 


Although Labadee beach is closed to Haitians because it was bought by Americans and only cruise ships have access to it, there are beautiful beaches along the coast accessible by small boats. 


I took a 50 minute boat ride to a virgin island off the coast and spend the afternoon there. It was an unforgettable day. 

The beautiful coastline

* Yes, just like in Game of thrones, a great TV show I highly recommend!

Along Haiti's West coast

When leaving Port-au-Prince and heading North-West, there is a different scenery from the busy, dusty streets of the big city. You can contemplate the sea on your left and impressive mountains on your right. I was lucky enough last summer during my first trip to Haiti to spend two afternoons on beaches near Montrouis and St-Marc. 

The public beach along the coast, just beside Wahoo Bay beach club and resort.

There are a few beautiful beach clubs and resorts along the coast that are worth checking out for a sweet escape from the city. Small boats that can take you out on the ocean, and you can enjoy local cuisine right on the beach with a Prestige in hand, the Haitian award-winning beer.

Out and about in Haiti cherie

I want to take some time - some posts- to show you Haiti. Not just the Haiti we see on television and in the news. The Haiti that's right there, waiting for you and I to awe and discover over and over again. Yes there are still tents (too many of them), poverty, suffering and violence in the Pearl of the Caribbean. But there is also breathtaking scenery, amazing colours on every building, cheerful people and music in the blazing sun and cooler evenings. 

Here's to Haiti, the good and the bad, the happy and the sad. 

The street of Port-au-Prince are always packed with people, mostly merchants and pedestrians, and way too many cars. The sidewalks overflow with baskets full of bananas, pineapples, mangoes and avocados. Cellphone card vendors are everywhere and there's constant noise. The trees along the roads have gorgeous flowers. 

In the streets of Petionville, a suburb of Port-au-Prince. Once a very affluential district, it presents now a clash between the rich and the poor. Still, Petionville is where most of the "good/nice" restaurants and boutiques are.

The view from outside the MUPANAH. Coconut trees and all. 

Near the National Palace is Champs-de-Mars, a plaza area. This is where took place the Carnaval des Fleurs (Flower Carnaval). The MUPANAH, National Heritage Museum of Haiti, is close-by. Inside, you can discover items from the colonial years, the evolution of the Haitian flag, and look at the pictures of all the Haitian presidents. 

Bon Fèt Alfredo!

The week went by so fast. It was the Carnaval des fleurs (Flower Carnaval) Sunday, Monday and Tuesday of this week. Champs-de-Mars, which is an area near the National Palace, was packed late in the afternoon, until the early hours of the morning. Streets busy with merchants and people of all ages waiting to watch the floats, which each had a band playing their "carnaval" theme song. Music in Haiti is BIG. Honestly, Haiti has some of the best songs I've heard. Even Friday morning, you could tell people were still in a Carnaval mood; no major traffic, people are happy and not even that excited about the weekend, since it seems we were just there. 

Lucardo, Alfredo & I. Cheers to Alfie!

I only had 2 classes to give this week. I found out Thursday that Alfredo would be celebrating his 20th birthday on Saturday August 4th. I wanted to plan a little something for him, knowing that he couldn't afford to do anything himself and hadn't planned to either. You just can't not celebrate your birthday! So after class today, I took out the 7 Up bottles and cookies I got the night before, and gave him a birthday card I made with coloured pencils (brought me back to kindergarden!). Lucardo and I started singing Happy Birthday, with Alfredo looking kind of shy! It wasn't anything big or fancy. But it showed him that we care about him, that we are grateful for his presence, that his smiling face can just make our day. 

Alfredo loves the expression "TGIF (Thank God it's Friday) that I taught him our first week of class. Well, today we celebrated TGIF and his 20th birthday. Simple, but meaningful. We had fun.